Fan training is a method of training fruit trees so that they grow flat against a wall or support, with the branches forming an attractive fan shape. This is a great option for areas or gardens with limited space.
What's in this guide
Choose a suitable fruit tree
Fan training is suitable for apples, pears, plums, cherries, figs, peaches, apricots, nectarines and almonds.
We recommend choosing a pre-trained fan-trained fruit tree as this will give you a significant head start. These generally come with a cane frame support and at least 5 branches that have been pre-trained to form the initial fan shape.
You can also choose a 1 year old maiden tree or feathered maiden tree, but these will require a lot more time and training.
Either way, make sure your tree is grown on a semi-vigorous rootstock.
Fan Trained Stella Cherry Tree
Fan Trained Bramley Seedling Apple Tree
Choose a suitable location for your tree and straining wires
A sunny, south or west-facing position is ideal for most fruits and will generate the best results. If you choose to plant against a fence or wall, make sure there is around 20cm of space between the tree and the wall. A fence or wall that is around 2 metres tall should be sufficient.
Install your straining wires
Attach taut, horizontal straining wires between firm posts or along a wall or fence, using the appropriate fixings. The first and lowest wire should be approx. 45cm (18”) above ground level, and the subsequent wires approx. 15cm (6”) apart.
Plant your tree
Plant your tree in the intended location, approx. 20cm away from the wall or fence, making sure to follow our usual tree planting guidelines. Angle your tree so that it slopes slightly towards the surface it’s being supported against. Take care not to bank the soil up over the collar or graft union of the tree as this can cause rotting. See our guide on How to Plant Trees to learn more.
Training your tree
Pre-trained trees
If you have a pre-trained tree, tie in the branches to the wire support. The main vertical leader should be removed to prevent the tree from being dense and overcrowded – cut the branch back right down to the arms that are at a 45 degree angle. If the tree comes with a bamboo framework, this can be removed.
If the “arms” look weak, you can cut them back by about two thirds to an upward facing bud in order to encourage strong and healthy growth.
Maiden trees
In spring cut back the tree’s main stem to about 40cm, leaving a few strong and healthy buds.
In summer, attach two bamboo canes at 45 degree angles and tie in two of the branches (one on either side of the trunk) that should develop from the buds to form the two main “arms” of the tree. Remove other shoots that have developed from the trunk, if needed.
In the second spring, cut the “arms” back by about two thirds to an upward-facing bud and again remove other shoots from the trunk if necessary.
Feathered maiden trees
As with the maiden trees, in spring, cut the main stem back to about 40cm to two strong branches to form the main “arms”.
Attach two bamboo canes at 45 degree angles and tie in the branches.
Cut the “arms” back by about two thirds to an upward-facing bud.
Creating your fan shape
Now you should have a tree with two strong “arms”, or more if it is pre-trained.
In the second summer, choose four shoots from each “arm” – one at the top to extend the branch’s reach, two on the upper part of the branch and one on the lower part. Tie them in to your wires at a 30 degree angle to the main “arm” so that they are evenly spaced apart.
Rub out any shoots heading towards the wall or fence and pinch back others to a single leaf.
Next spring, cut back the four branches by around one third, to an upward facing bud if possible.
As the branches grow, continue to tie the new growth into the framework. If there’s space, any side shoots that develop can also be tied in to form more branches.
Aftercare
Any pruning on established fan trained fruit trees should be carried out in summer.
In subsequent years trim back outward growing shoots and continue to tie in the fan structure to the framework. Also continue to rub down any shoots that grow towards your wall or fence. Once the full size is reached, prune all new growth back to 4-5cm each year in early summer.
