Ornamental Trees
If you only have a patio or a small garden, or if you’re struggling for space, growing fruit in pots and containers is a great option.
It is one of the most rewarding things you can do in the garden, but if you’ve never grown your own fruit before, it can be hard to know where to start. The concept of rootstocks can also be a little intimidating to the uninitiated.
Here’s our beginner’s guide to growing your own fruit trees in containers, including everything you need to know such as choosing the right rootstocks and varieties.
It’s worth mentioning that fruit trees grown in pots do require a little more care and attention than those planted in the ground, in particular extra watering. We’ll get onto that in more detail later.
What's in this guide
Choosing the right rootstock
The majority of fruiting plants are suitable for growing in containers, but a few fruits are less suitable than others. Plum, Gage and Damson trees, for instance, can be planted in containers, but will crop better when planted in the ground.
Depending on what you’d like to grow, the first thing to consider is rootstock. Most fruit trees, including Apple trees, Pear trees, Cherry trees, Plum/Gage/Damson trees, Peach trees, Nectarine trees and Apricot trees, are grown on varying sizes of rootstock, so you’ll need to make sure you pick the correct one.
What is a tree rootstock and why is it important?
In the simplest terms, a rootstock determines how vigorous the fruit tree is, and therefore how big it will get. If you choose a vigorous rootstock, the tree will grow to a large size. A semi-vigorous rootstock, or a dwarf rootstock, helps keep the tree to a smaller, more manageable size – these are the best options for pots and patios.
Below are the rootstocks we recommend for growing fruit trees in containers, so keep an eye out for these when you’re shopping around. If you have the space for a larger pot, we prefer semi-dwarf or semi-vigorous rootstocks for their resilience (we’ll get onto pot sizes shortly).
Other fruit trees, such as Fig trees and Olive trees, are suited to container growing, but aren’t grown on rootstocks.
Recommended rootstocks for container growing
Apple trees
M26 (semi-dwarf), M27 (very dwarf)
Pear trees
Quince C (dwarf)
Cherry trees
Gisela 5 (dwarf), Colt (semi-vigorous)
Plum, Damson & Gage trees
Pixy (dwarf)
Peach & Nectarine trees
Pixy (dwarf), St Julien A (semi-vigorous)
Apricot trees
Torinel (semi-dwarf), St Julien A (semi-vigorous)
Choosing the right variety of fruit
In addition to rootstocks, you’ll also need to consider which variety of fruit tree to go for. Generally, most varieties are suitable for containers if they are available on a dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock, where applicable. It’s worth bearing in mind that some varieties require suitable pollination partners within a certain mile radius in order to produce fruit, however this is normally only an issue if you’re in a remote location. Generally, we recommend self-fertile varieties for pots and patios, as these will produce fruit without the need for a pollination partner.
There are also some naturally dwarf varieties that have been developed specifically for very small gardens and patios, which are ideal for container growing. Blue Moon Apple, for instance, is grown as a compact, single stem, upright cordon, reaching just 40cm wide. Athos Dwarf Cherry, Garden Lady Dwarf Peach and Garden Beauty Dwarf Nectarine are a few other naturally dwarf varieties to look out for.
Columnar Apple 'Blue Moon'
Dwarf Cherry 'Athos'
Pear 'Conference'
Recommended self-fertile fruits for container growing
Self-fertile Apple trees
Blue Moon Apple, Cox Self Fertile Apple, Granny Smith Apple, Red Devil Apple, Red Falstaff Apple, Red Windsor Apple, Scrumptious Apple
Self-fertile Pear trees
Concorde Pear, Conference Pear
Self-fertile Cherry trees
Athos Dwarf Cherry, Felicita Cherry, Lapins Cherokee Cherry, Morello Cherry, Stella Cherry, Sweetheart Cherry, Sunburst Cherry, Sylvia Cherry
Self-fertile Plum, Gage & Damson trees
Czar Plum, Jubilee Plum, Marjories Seedling Plum, Opal Plum, Victoria Plum
Farleigh Damson, Merryweather Damson
Cambridge Gage, Dennistons Superb Gage
Self-fertile Peach & Nectarine trees
Avalon Pride Peach, Garden Lady Dwarf Peach, Peregrine Peach, Rochester Peach, Terrace Amber Dwarf Peach
Garden Beauty Dwarf Nectarine, Lord Napier Nectarine
Self-fertile Apricot trees
Compacta Apricot, Golden Glow Apricot, Moorpark Apricot
Self-fertile Fig trees
Brown Turkey Fig, Ice Crystal Fig, Rouge de Bordeaux Fig
Fig 'Brown Turkey'
Plum 'Victoria'
Apple 'Granny Smith'
Planting and choosing the right container
Containerised fruit can be planted into containers at any time of year. Bare root plants can only be planted during the dormant season, normally between November and March.
When choosing your container, it’s important not to go too large. We generally recommend a container that is about twice as wide and twice as deep as the tree’s current rootmass. For trees that have a dwarf rootstock, an approx. 50cm diameter and a 50cm depth is generally adequate. For trees with a semi-dwarf or semi-vigorous rootstock, you’ll want something a little larger.
As with all plants, make sure your pot will provide adequate drainage. Fruit trees in particular don’t like wet soil. Add some drainage holes to the bottom of the pot if necessary, and add a layer of crocks or large stones to the bottom before adding your compost. For most fruits we recommend using a good quality, soil-based compost, such as John Innes No 3 (an exception is blueberry plants which prefer ericaceous compost). We also recommend applying Rootgrow (Mycorrhizal fungi) during planting. Read our guide on How to Plant Trees into Pots & Containers to learn more.
Watering, feeding and aftercare
As we’ve mentioned, fruit trees in containers require more care and attention than those planted in the ground.
A good watering regime is essential. Plants in containers are prone to drying out, and fruit trees require extra water to produce their crop. Make sure to water well and regularly each year, throughout spring and summer. In autumn, you will need to water less frequently. Consider installing a water butt if you don’t already have one. Read our guide on How to Water Trees Correctly to learn more.
Fruiting plants in containers should be fed regularly with a high-potassium feed to promote healthy growth and increased yield —we recommend Levington® Tomorite® Liquid Concentrated Tomato Food but other options are available including slow-release pellets which can be applied less frequently. We also recommend applying mulch to help retain soil moisture.
For the best results, make sure your pot is in a full sun, sheltered position. Hardy fruits should be left outdoors, but for less hardy varieties like Fig trees, these can be moved into a greenhouse for protection during colder months.
Generally, you should repot your fruit tree once a year for the first few years into a slightly larger pot, incorporating fresh compost. Winter is a good time to do this.
The same pruning advice applies, whether your fruit is grown in the ground or in a container. Visit our Help & Advice section to learn more.
Soft fruit including berries and currants
Soft fruit including blueberries, raspberries, gooseberries and currants, which aren’t available on rootstocks, are also suitable for container growing, and are another great option for patios and smaller gardens. Most soft fruits are self-fertile, and the same planting and aftercare advice applies. For the best results, choose a naturally compact or dwarf variety.
Blueberry 'Pink Lemonade'
Raspberry 'Autumn Bliss'
Gooseberry 'Hinnonmaki Yellow'
Why to avoid growing from seed
Some gardeners choose to grow fruit from seed, however we advise against this. Trees grown from seed take much longer to produce fruit, around 10 years, and even then your chances of producing edible fruits are slim. You’ll also have less control over what is eventually produced, because fruit trees do not reproduce true to type. A seed taken from a James Grieve apple won’t produce a James Grieve apple tree, for example.
We recommend trees grown on rootstocks as they offer various advantages over seed-grown—they produce fruit faster, are hardier, and have a better resistance to diseases.
